![]() ![]() TDA, Terminate Discharge Alarm: if set, means that remaining capacity is 0, or the cell Voltage is less than the programmed Terminate Voltage level (12000mV) or at least one of the single cell has dropped below the programmed Cell Undervoltage protection level (2800mV).OTA, Overtemperature alarm: if set, means that the battery temperature has reached the programmed Overtemperature threshold (typically 60☌ both in charge and discharge).TCA, Terminate Charge Alarm: if set, means that the battery has detected a primary charge termination.OCA, Overcharge Alarm: if set, means that the battery is being charged beyond the maximum programmed overcharge limit.Each bit is set ON when higlighted, OFF when grayed. Gives some information about some states and errors. Is it worth it? Like already posted not really.Below the Battery Live Parameters, several status bits are cyclically read from the battery whenever the Read button is pressed,: #Be2works full version full versionYou can read/write on the demo version but only a few chips otherwise full version is needed. To your question you must use CP2112 from Be2works or CJMCU CP2112 on ebay (I've been told) Alot of times it is just 2 cells bad that has caused shutdown. I have also an Opus BT-C3100 charger that will charge,discharge with mah rating, resistance check ect. I have also boosted from positive of battery cells to positive output pin for a few seconds to wake a few up from sleep state. If the pack can be charged to min voltage and laptop will charge it then you can keep voltage to the board and replace the bad/weak cells but if volts are removed from board when replacing cells then shutdown almost always occurs. Yours probably has a 12A43 fuse that should have 0ohm side to side and about 8ohm top to bottom. There is always a reason for this such as one cell getting too hot, too many charge cycles, over/under voltage ect.ġ8650 cells run from 3.7v to 4.2v fully charged If the fuse has blown on the board (they all have one) it means bms has went into shutdown mode. I have been repairing/recycling laptop packs for the last 6 months and here is what I know. Has anyone successfully done this hack before to make it remotely worth it ? Any ideas ? Cheers guys. I managed to identify the data and clock pins (SDA/SCL) on the battery connector, since they were thankfully labeled on the backside of the board there, but accessing them is going to be tough. #Be2works full version softwareTrouble is the software only likes playing with the hardware listed there, so I'm not sure it can be fooled to read from other devices. I already have a CH341 programmer which supports I2C, so I was hoping I could used that instead. The site lists some "official" hardware, the simplest of which seems to be that CP2112, which I managed to find fairly cheap on Ali, but I wonder if it can be done some other way. Without it, the software just says "No adapter found" and doesn't even start so I can at least look at the GUI. #Be2works full version how toIt looked promising enough to give it a try, but then I realised I have no idea how to connect up to the battery.the official site, as well as some videos I found, show some sort of adapter that does this. Apparently it can be reprogrammed to reset the battery to factory conditions, so I did some digging and found this software BE2Works which supposedly does the job. How can it do that ? I did a bit of research and found that there's a little controller chip on that board there - the BQ20z in my case which I pictured there - which is responsible for this. Measured the 3 sets of cells afterwards and sure enough they all read the same 3.7v, so the pack itself was fine.what gives ? Turns out the laptop refuses to run on battery if the battery itself tells it it's past its due, even though the cells are fine. I applied 11v to the ends of the pack, limited to 1a from my power supply and charged them up for several hours. I popped the battery open and found the 6 cells. Unfortunately the battery is totally dead, not that you'd expect otherwise for a laptop this old, so I wanted to mess around with it and see if I can replace some of its cells to at least allow me to move it from one room to the other without having to shut it down every time I have to pull the adapter. 8Gb of RAM and a modest i5 CPU on it - worth saving. I recently managed to score a Samsung NP300E5C laptop which was sold as defective, so I took the gamble and turns out all that was wrong with it was a broken power jack, so it was a snap to get it going again. ![]()
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